Innovative and utilitarian, DZHUS is a conceptual womenswear brand with a strong visual identity. Innovative yet almost archetypical at the same time, the brands style derives from the interaction and transformation of construction modules. DECO got to know the designer behind it all, Irina Dzhus…
Describe the aesthetic and practice behind your designs?
DZHUS pieces have an austere, industrial-inspired style, the experimental cut makes them unique and each collections makes a philosophical statement and carries an ethical message, as all of the garments are cruelty-free.
Your studio space is…
… divided in 2 places: I prefer working on sketches and prototypes on my own, at home, and after that the concepts are given life at the production studio.
Tell us a bit about your Autumn/Winter collection?
Inspired by the concept of “Totalitarium”, the outfits feature austere silhouettes, technical textures and a monochrome palette. The geometrical pleats interpret architectural elements of Constructivism and Totalitaristic Classicism. The garments are made of authentic working uniform cottons as well as fabrics typical of the era’s functional fashion – such as woolen knit. Special finishing, such as raw hems and exposed seam allowances, accentuates the technological nature of the designs. Every outfit expresses juxtaposition between total unification and strong individuality, which is a distinguishing paradox of the post-modern fashion.
Who should ELLE Decoration follow on Instagram?
What sank deep into my mind were the edgy styles sported by blogger Lily Gatins @lereport and the independent approach to fashion on @sickymagazine. @dezeen is a stronghold of inspiration for me, and their Instagram account is great too.
What is your all-time favourite fashion trend?
I’ll never get tired of an all black outfit…
Most memorable project?
I usually don’t organise catwalk shows – just showrooms, but for my Spring/Summer 2016 line I decided to make an exception and organized an unusual show: it took place in a loft gallery located in a former factory building, with frayed white walls and concrete flooring. We played records of real industrial engines and each model was making a different symbolic gesture, with a certain meaning connected to social communication, as she walked the runway. The show was avant-garde but not grotesque, just as I wanted. I received a lot of positive feedback from fashion experts and press who attended.
I really admire Tilda Swinton’s style.
Advice for young, aspiring entrepreneurs and designers?
Now, in the era of oversupply, we should be very careful to not harm our environment. Why launch another brand to make something that was invented before and has already been numerously produced by someone else? We always have to think twice if our concepts are unique enough to be worth the production. But even an ingenious design is not worth killing a living creature. As a designer, I aim to create pure products for intelligent and conscious people who value humane behavior and synergy with nature. I want to prove with my designs that fashion can be as cool without violence.
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